Bye Bye Delhi, and Hello Agra

We are loving this trip already.  After we got used to the stifling heat (around 40 degrees) and the traffic and general hubbub, we have enjoyed Delhi and Agra enormously.  There are loads of pictures on the Delhi and Agra pages if you’re interested.

   Our homes for the next 18 months

Delhi was much nicer than we had dared hoped for.  Despite being advised by the locals that it is “dangerous” and we shouldn’t walk anywhere, we have done just that.  It seems that people in India equate lots of people to ‘danger” and don’t themselves like walking anywhere anyway.

We walked miles around the streets of Delhi, especially where the wonderful cool, efficient Metro doesn’t go.  This way you see all the sights and sounds from the incessant noise of the horns of the auto-rickshaws and cars to the street sellers selling everything from lentils to ice creams.

The centre of Delhi has smartened up considerably, with lots of lawns and gardens and fairly tidy roads.  However, the main dangers of walking around are the lack of pavements in many areas and the ability to cross the road on a zebra crossing without being run down by some vehicle which assumes it has a right of way.  Don’t be slow and dawdle in India….

       Tim’s Birthday in Delhi

Although we did go and see the Red Fort, Chandni Chowk and India Gate, we have spent much of our time settling in and organising things.  In the district of Greater Kailash we wandered from Market M to Market E and back again to buy a mobile phone and get a contract (see our new contact details).

We got a Samsung phone so we can use GPS to find places and WhatsApp to communicate when our own mobiles are switched off.  Our three month contract cost £6 plus international calls, which is considerably cheaper than the UK.  But remember this took about three hours and a lot of shoe leather – very different to home.

After four days in Delhi we took a train to Agra.  This is where we moved from the middle class Delhi we had seen so far, to the “rest of India”.  To start with, the rickshaw driver drove down the wrong way of a three lane motorway to take a shortcut across to the other side.  Having survived being nearly hit by a bus we made it to Hazrat Nuzamuddin railway station, where the electric display screen partially worked to direct us to platform 5.

We had a seat on the Gatimaan Express to Agra, which was lovely.  Breakfast was provided which consisted of fresh fruit, chapati, vegetable curry, raita, bread, butter and jam, apple juice, biscuits and tea or coffee.  It made the almost two hour journey fly by and meant we didn’t need to eat again until the evening.

     Our “light” breakfast on the train

We then hit Agra station at about 10am.  There were hundreds of rickshaws waiting for everybody, and we went with one driver who took us through all the neat lines of rickshaws to his uncle’s.  We set off for the hotel and then got the big sell of trips, things to do etc. That we could have with uncle.  This is one of the things you get used to after a while – everyone is trying to sell you something.  He was pleasant and we agreed to go on a trip in the evening to see the Taj Mahal.

It was very hot during the day, but we did visit Agra Fort, which was very impressive and more complete than the Red Fort in Delhi.  However, the highlight was the visit to Mehtab Barg in the evening.  We had to pass all sorts of areas to get there.  Firstly was the wholesale markets where people buy goods for sale elsewhere in Uttar Pradesh.  Then we went the back roads past people living in poverty under tarpaulins and burning firewood to cook on.  Finally we arrived at the gates to perfectly manicured gardens opposite the Taj Mahal.  All this in five easy minutes!

The trip was worth it as we saw the Taj Mahal as sun was setting.  There were not many people around, and the views across were incredible – brought a lump to our throats.  The Taj Mahal is big, made of marble and shimmers in the light.  It is extremely impressive.

In the evening we walked down the main road, avoiding all sorts of obstacles.  In Agra there are buses, cars, lorries, auto-rickshaws, bicycle rickshaws, motorbikes, horse-drawn carts, bicycles and cows.  As the cow is sacred they can wander everywhere and stop the traffic if necessary.  We did eventually get to an Indian Restaurant and had a lovely meal – we can say that the food here has been incredibly good, and “touch wood” no sign of “Delhi Belly” yet.

Tofay was the highlight as we went to the Taj Mahal at sunrise.  With the sun coming up it is almost pink and is wonderful.  There were also few crowds so we could really appreciate everything.  We spent two hours looking at this marvellous site before heading back to the hotel for a quiet day.

     The obligatory selfie at the Taj Mahal

So we can honestly say that it has been incredible.  It’s not been too much of a culture shock, but don’t underestimate the difference to home.  It is busy; it is hot; you do occasionally get hassled, but everyone has to make a living.  And it is quite magical,  What else is in store for us?