An Introduction to Laos

After three weeks in Cambodia, we headed north across the only land border with Laos. The crossing was relatively straightforward, if a little slow; but what happened next was not a great introduction to the country. We saw everyone from our minibus get off and head for two local islands, but we were told to wait for a tuk tuk to get to our different island, Don Khong. We were then transported in what can only really be described as an old motorcycle and side car for an hour and a quarter in complete darkness, with a twelve year old boy lighting the way with a torch.

On arrival at our guesthouse, we found it completely shut and in darkness, despite our booking confirmation by email. What was worst, was the next hotel, and much of the area was in complete darkness too. We managed to spot a light on down the road and had to persuade the owner to open up his hotel so we could stay. It was clean and tidy, but he would not budge below $40, so we were caught over a barrel and stayed. This was not a great introduction to Laos.

We got up at 7am and were served a lovely breakfast on a verandah overlooking the lovely Mekong River. This cheered us up a bit, and the hotel owner said he would take us for free to catch a ferry. However, this cost another $30, so we weren’t happy, but we did get our own private ferry ride for an hour and a half down the beautiful Mekong River.

But within a few hours our view of Laos turned on its head, as we arrived at a jetty on the most beautiful island of Don Khon. In the Four Thousand Islands area of Laos, this has to be one of the best places we have visited to date. Because it is so remote, few people venture down here, but they are missing a real trick. Anyone looking for something beautiful, off the beaten track, but more accessible than you think, should go to this island

We found a lovely hotel with a room on the first floor overlooking the Mekong River. The town of Don Khon only consisted of a few small hotels and guest houses, shops and restaurants; and in low season we think there were only twenty or thirty tourists staying here. The neighbouring island of Don Det was much busier, and we did visit it later.

We explored the island by bicycle and kayak. Bicycles were £1 per day to hire, but did not come with gears, or strong brakes, but the whole island was just dirt tracks anyway. We cycled past idyllic stilt houses with perfectly neat and tidy rice fields. The biggest surprise were the “waterfalls”. There were three large sets of rapids in between the islands stretching across the Mekong, making the river only navigable above and below this point. In the 1860s the French actually built a railway across the two islands so they could bypass these rapids.

We spent another day kayaking the length of these islands. Starting at Don Det town we paddled in double kayaks southwards, using the flow of the river to help us. We stopped above the aforementioned rapids, where the canoes were transported by trailer to a point below, not before we had come to grief at one point by falling out of the boat in a rough part of the river. We also took a diversion to see some rare river dolphins, but these are almost extinct despite the best efforts to save them.

The best times were just spent relaxing, with a coffee or beer, in the idyllic surroundings. With coconut palms everywhere and jungle not too far away, it was lovely watching the sun set. We were mad enough to try and cycle to Don Det village in the evening, which was 45 minutes in complete darkness with only one head torch between us. We avoided cycling off into the river and disappearing, so must put that down as one of our great adventures too.

This was a truly great introduction to Laos. We now have to travel quite a long distance to get to northern Laos where the rest of our trip will continue.