A Tale of Derring Do

After the great experience in the pampas and jungle we returned to La Paz for a few days, initially to take it easy. However, we decided to do one final thing in Bolivia, which was perhaps the biggest thrill of all – cycling down the Death Road.

We left La Paz in a couple of minibuses on a cold morning after it had snowed overnight. After an hour or so we got out of the minibuses at the top of a mountain pass at 4,700 metres, surrounded by twelve twenty-something Belgians all eager for some action. Meanwhile the guides unloaded our mountain bikes while we took some pictures.

We were looking down a snowy valley below, while we were briefed on the dangers ahead of us. We were dressed in several layers, including heavy jackets and trousers, helmets and elbow- and knee-pads, when we set off down the main road.

For twenty kilometres we weaved around tight bends and slow lorries on the mountain road. We were told how to ride sitting back on the bike with our elbows out, lightly touching the brakes, which was very useful as we belted down the road.

We then hit “it”. The signs said “Welcome to the Death Road”, and this was where previously 200 to 300 people would die annually driving off the edge of the road and plunging down the enormous ravine below. Ten years ago a new road was built, but the old Death Road, or “Most Dangerous Road in the World”, was saved for a few hardy locals and tourists on mountain bikes and motorbikes.

Before us we had thirty miles of sharp bends, sheer drops, muddy roads, dirt roads, rocks and water. In an exhilarating few hours we switched from riding on the left of the road, to the right, and back again; all the time looking out for fellow cyclists and the possibility of motorbikes and cars coming in the opposite direction.

The views were amazing, but could only be appreciated when we were stationary. Someone a few years ago looked back over his shoulder and promptly disappeared over the cliff, never to be seen again. Needlesss to say, our concentration was solely focussed on the road, which in parts was barely a car width across, but which had a vertiginous thousand foot drop off to the side.

It was absolutely exhilarating and the most exciting thing we have done when travelling. We were in the middle of the pack, with only the four fast young Belgian guys flying ahead of us. It was fantastic fun, and by the time we were at the bottom, forty miles and 3,200 metres lower, we were in hot sunshine and on dusty roads.

We finished the day having a swim in a hotel pool and having some well-earned lunch, before we had to make the way back on the new road all the way back to La Paz. This was a truly great end to a truly great country, and we have loved every minute of our time in Bolivia. Now back in to Chile…