Hanoi and Saigon – A Tale of Two Cities

We spent our last few days in Vietnam in Saigon.  At first Saigon, most locals prefer that name to Ho Chi Minh City, was difficult to fathom out.  There was the busy bar area of Bui Vien with loud music and Karaoke, but everything else just seemed busy and modern.  However, after spending a few days there we managed to work it out.

It all comes down to history.  The South of Vietnam was run by the French and then had “Puppet” leaders during and after the Vietnam War.  In April 1975, the Communist Viet Minh from the north under the command of Ho Chi Minh, united with the Viet Cong rebels in the south and defeated the South in the “Fall of Saigon”.  Thus the south became Communist, the North and SOuth of Vietnam were reunited as a single country, and with the capital firmly located in Hanoi.  They left the site of the surrender, the Reunification Palace in a pristine, unchanged state as a reminder of who won the civil war.

Thus the locals prefer the name Saigon,  Here, the place is very entrepreneurial, and everyone is rushing here from elsewhere in Vietnam to get a piece of the action; so the place is full of tower blocks and a new metro is taking shape.  In low-rise Hanoi, Sapa etc. everyone likes the status quo and keeps the faith as good Communists,  It is quite interesting that the two sides don’t really like each other – not with animosity, but more a lack of understanding of the other side’s beliefs.

Thus it took us a while to “get” Saigon as it appears a bit soulless at first.  However, we soon worked out that it has distinct quarters and districts, and the wide French-style boulevards and beautifully manicured trees and shrubs do give it a grand feel; not too dissimilar to Singapore in parts.

The colonial architecture left by the French, with a large Gothic-style cathedral and a Post Office designed by Gustaf Eiffel is majestic.  There is also the magnificent 1960s concrete Reunification Palace left as it was after the Fall of Saigon with plush seats and even the original Mercedes car and shooting gallery.

This is all at odds with the beautifully ornate Communist Party Headquarters with the massive statue of Ho Chi Minh waving in front at the centre of the city.  However, Saigon gets its own back as he is surrounded by Gucci and Chanel shops and five star hotels.

We were reminded of the past with the exhibitions in the War Remnant Museum which tell of the horrors inflicted on both sides of the Vietnam War.  The trip to the Cu Chi Tunnels was fascinating as it demonstrates how hard it was for America to fight a war with 16,000 people living underground in 250Km of tunnels.  The ingenuity was incredible e.g. sandals which when worn look as if the users are walking in the opposite direction, and ultimately led to the Americans saying that the Viet Cong were “everywhere and nowhere” at the same time.

The final day was used for a cookery course.  This was great fun as we learnt the art of Vietnamese cooking – apparently it’s all about the fish sauce.  We prepared our own fish sauce and then made pumpkin seeds stuffed with prawns, chicken salad and sea bass steamed in banana leafs.  Very different to the street cuisine of the north, and another example of how Saigon differentiates itself from Hanoi.

That’s it now for Vietnam as our one month visa expires in two days.  We are now off the Cambodia, just across the border.